Scotland, Day 11: Lagavulin, Ardbeg, and Laphroaig
Scotch Tallies
| Scotches drunk today | Unique Scotches today |
|---|---|
| 21 | 21 |
“Pacing is for losers.”
Another [Bowmore House][bowmore-house] breakfast blend, then [Kildalton Cross and the roofless church][kildalton]. Stupid pretty.
Lagavulin
Mark led our [Lagavulin][lagavulin] tour. We talked through malting, mashing, fermentation, and separating heads, hearts, and tails. The old stories included hiding stills in coffins when the tax collector came around. Plus bribes.
| Whisky | What I thought |
|---|---|
| Lagavulin 16 | The starting point for the tasting. |
| 12-year-old fill-your-own, Madeira cask | Sweet vanilla, wood spice, and peppery smoke. Almost Jim Beam. I tried it to see whether I wanted a bottle. I did not. |
| Lagavulin 8 | Pale straw color, peat and sweetness on the nose, then smoke. Less sweet, with less going on than the 16. |
| Distillers Edition | More amber, with chocolate and bitterness. Smooth finish. |
| 15-year-old festival bottle | Smoke blossoming over warm notes. Muscatel casks. |
We didn’t buy anything there. The fill-your-own wasn’t great, and the distillery exclusive was too expensive.
Ardbeg
Lunch at [SeaSalt in Port Ellen][seasalt] was creamy oysters, fish and chips, and chicken schnitzel.
Our [Ardbeg][ardbeg] guide enjoyed slagging us off. We also heard about Shorty, a dog who used to come down the road and join the tours. He’s buried on the property.
| Whisky | What I thought |
|---|---|
| Ardbeg 10 | Salty and spicy, from bourbon casks. |
| Wee Beastie | Five years old, bourbon and sherry casks. Ashy. |
| An Oa | Sherry, heavily charred virgin oak, and bourbon. Does not taste of bell peppers. |
| Uigeadail | Dried fruit, with more sherry than Wee Beastie. |
| Corryvreckan | New French oak and bourbon. Peppery, with a tang. |
Laphroaig, Then More
At [Laphroaig][laphroaig], they were still doing some floor malting on site. The tasting covered Oak Select, the standard 10-year-old, Quarter Cask, a sherry expression, Lore, cask strength, Cairdeas 2025, and Portwood Cask.
Quarter Cask was fruity and dry. Lore had iodine. Cask strength was warm and sweet. Cairdeas was the festival version of Lore.
We finished up at the [Bowmore Hotel][bowmore-hotel], which Teresa called a “goddamn delight.” Crab, fried mushrooms, Octomore 15.3, and a Kilchoman 100% Islay 7th Edition.
The Octomore was oily and super smoky, with dried fruit from the sherry casks. The Kilchoman wasn’t that smoky on the nose. Sweet. Almost turpentine.
I crossed out my tally and increased it after drinking more. Twenty-one for the day.
Part of our August 2025 Scotland and London trip. Trip summary.
From the Notebook
[ardbeg]: https://www.ardbeg.com/en-gb
[bowmore-hotel]: https://bowmorehotel.co.uk/
[bowmore-house]: https://www.thebowmorehouse.co.uk/
[kildalton]: https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit/all/kildalton-cross/
[lagavulin]: https://www.malts.com/en-gb/distilleries/lagavulin
[laphroaig]: https://www.laphroaig.com/
[seasalt]: https://www.seasalt-bistro.co.uk/